Golden retrievers, as do many water dogs, have a natural oil to their skin. This oil acts as a natural water repellent. The oil is also part of what causes the "dog smell". You do not want to eliminate the oil entirely as it is essential to good skin and coat condition. You may wash your golden as often as once a week if you feel it is necessary but a bath every 3-4 weeks is usually sufficient. You need to make sure you use a mild or medicated shampoo made for dogs. Dog shampoo is often sold in a concentrated form so be sure to read the label and dilute accordingly. Using a concentrated full strength is like dumping money down the drain.
BRUSHING
Before you bathe your dog you must brush the coat thoroughly. Wetting a tangled and matted coat will only cause it to mat and tangle more. The longer the coat the more it is prone to tangles and mats. A golden should be brushed daily or every other day. Frequent brushing will not only help keep the dog clean, it will also help keep your house cleaner. Every strand of hair on the brush is one less that will be on your floor. Brushing will also remove dirt and debris (i.e.: leaves, twigs, grass, etc.) that is commonly picked up. Brushing a well groomed dog should take no more than 5 minutes a day.
A golden retriever has a double coat, meaning that there is a soft, fluffy under coat and a harder outer coat. The purpose of such a coat is to trap air in the fluffy under coat and under the oily outer coat thus creating a natural water resistance. This helps prevent water from soaking the coat which reduces buoyancy. It also aids in maintaining proper body temperature during water retrievals.
All double coated breeds shed their hair. During times of heavy shedding, called "blowing coat", daily brushing will speed the removal of the dead hair. Several grooming tools are handy to have. A shedding comb and a pin brush will help remove the under coat. A pin brush will keep the furnishings (britches or petticoats, long hair on the front of the legs and long tummy hair) as well as the tail neat. A rubber curry brush will help remove the outer guard hair and the short hair on the fronts of the legs and head. A flea comb not only removes fleas but also provides a thorough undercoat removal once the dog has been thoroughly groomed.
BATHING
Once a dog has been thoroughly brushed you can bathe your dog. Bathing your golden will be easier if you have a hand held type of shower head. Installing a second length of hose is often worth the investment. If your dog will not be still in the tub, a noose type device is available which suction cups to the tub or wall and will keep you dog in place. A "Stay-n-Wash" will cost between $5 and $6.
The water should be lukewarm, not hot, not cold. First soak the entire coat. Apply a small amount of shampoo to the coat and work through over the entire dog, using more shampoo as needed. Once the dog has been well lathered, rinse thoroughly. Soap residue in the coat will cause skin irritation. Once the coat has been rinsed completely, squeeze the excess water out with your hands. You can teach your dog to shake on command. Take advantage to the fact your dog will shake naturally. Pull the shower curtain or hold up a towel when you see your dog is about to shake and say "Rover, Shake!" (or "shake your body" or what ever) and after they shake praise profusely. (Good Boy!! Good Shake!!) Always use the command again in the praise to positively reinforce the word. After several baths your dog should pick up what you mean. You can towel dry your dog as necessary. A creme rinse (made for dogs) is helpful to prevent tangling and matting, especially the tail, behind the ears and on the furnishings.
Blow dryers made for humans are not good to use on dogs unless they have a "cool" setting. Typically, the air from a human blowdryer is too hot for your dog. It can easily damage the hair or burn the skin. Canine dryers are available if you are interested.
EAR CARE
Goldens have dropped ears and as such are more prone to infections and dirty ears than some prick ear breeds. The ear flap helps protect the ear from entry by dirt and debris. This is important if you remember Goldens are retrieving dogs who were bred to retrieve game and fowl from water and brush.
Because the dropped ear can prevent air from circulating you need to check your dogs ears at least once a week. A clean healthy ear is light pink with a "clean" smell. An ear that is red, has red bumps or sore spots, contains an brown ear wax, or has a foul odor needs attention. If left, infection can result and have serious consequences which will require veterinary attention.
Ear cleaning is a pretty simple job and should take no more than 2-3 minutes to keep clean. The ears must be cleaned gently. NEVER use a Q-tip to enter the ear canal, just as with a human ear, serious injury can occur. Use a cotton ball, soft cloth moistened with an otic cleaning solution, or baby wipe to wipe the inside of the ear flap. A routine cleaning should be done once a week. The otic solution can be purchased from your veterinarian or from a supply catalog. Pay particular attention after your dog has been swimming. Many bacteria live in water and can cause trouble.
A deeper cleaning needs to be done every other week. Drop several drops of the otic solution into your dogs ear. Gently massage the base of the ear to help work loose any excess wax and allow your dog to shake out. This will usually bring wax up from inside of the ear which can then gently be wiped out.
Some dogs are prone to dirty ears, infections or mites. Constantly shaking the head, rubbing it on the floor or the furniture, or cocking it to one side could be signs of an infection or mites. Even if the ear appears and smells clean and healthy you may still wish to consult your veterinarian. If left unattended and infected, serious damage can occur. A topical cream or ointment is usually prescribed and the problem can easily be cleared up.
FOOT CARE
Goldens have furry feet. Excess hair on the paws will track dirt and debris into your house, reduce traction, and pick up foreign objects which can injure the pads. The hair can easily be trimmed using round tipped scissors. Feet will need to be attended to weekly. Trimming hair and nails every week will contribute to the overall appearance of your dog. Because some dogs put up a fuss about having their feet done, you may find it easier to do one paw at a time over a period of a few days.
To trim the hair, hold the paw and turn pad up, this may be easier if your dog is lying down. Carefully trim only the hair sticking out from between the pads. The area between the pads is very ticklish and you can easily injure your dog if he or she jerks away. To clean the hair from between the pads, turn the foot over and brush hair up and away from the toes. This will make the hair stick up and it can be trimmed off. This will give the foot a cleaner look. If you think that takes too much off you may want to purchase a pair of thinning shears (cost $15 on up). Trimming the hair with the thinners will make a much more natural looking foot and remove less hair with each cut. This can be helpful when you are learning. If you don't like how you trimmed the foot don't worry! The hair will grow back quickly.
Even more important than trimming the hair is keeping the nails at an acceptable length. If you can hear your dog clicking as he or she walks across the floor, you need to trim nails. This is NOT HARD. Take your time, take small amounts off the nail each time and trim often. If you cut too much and "quick" the nail it will bleed profusely. Have a bottle of styptic powder ($3-$5) on hand. Apply some powder to the bleeding surface with a cotton ball or gauze pad. Hold in place until the bleeding stops in a minute or two. Quicking your dog hurts like your finger does when you cut it. Trimming small amounts each time will help prevent cutting into the nail bed. Please refer to the diagram for more instructions.